On the Road Again

On the Road Again

When we traveled the roads of America in the 1980s and 90s doing art shows, there were two songs we always sang—one as we left our home, and one when we returned. On the Road Again was our leaving anthem, and we belted out Oklahoma! when we crossed the state line entering our state from the north, south, east, or west. Traveling was in our blood for fifteen years.

There are a lot of ways to travel in the US but also in Jordan.

Only two generations ago, camels and donkeys were the principle means of transportation in Jordan. Now, they are only a memory as primary transportation. Occasionally, as you travel, you will see a free-range herd of camels and a donkey here and there, but not often. Except for tourist photo-ops, the need for camels is reduced to race-animals for the wealthy and meat for cuisine. Yes, you’ll find camel dishes on the menu.

Donkeys are far less expensive than camels and still serve as short distance load bearers and travel in rural areas.  But even there, few families own one. Now, you only see the multi-passenger car, truck, taxi, and bus—the motorcycle is an option for risky singles and doubles. The king rides a Harley.

If you haven’t heard about drivers in Jordan, well—you haven’t heard enough. When we started talking to our friends about moving there, they were quick to tell us all about them. Not being a world traveler, I can’t say much about other countries, but if these folks drove in the U.S., they would soon be bankrupt because of all the traffic tickets they would get. When traveling in there, you might want to choose the option of being a white-knuckled passenger in Aqaba’s little green taxis for a while instead of risking your life on the streets. As you can see, they are small.

If you stop for a moment, a taxi driver will inquire whether you need a ride.


Fortunately, about every fourth car is a taxi. Should you want to go down the street or to another city, call a taxi. They are inexpensive and often the most convenient form of transportation. For 2 JD (Jordanian dinar, roughly $2.82 ) you can go anywhere in Aqaba. Regardless of your destination, first ask the driver about the fee until you are accustomed to the rates.

White “service taxis” have ride-fixed routes and are shared with other passengers. Private taxis are painted yellow, and someone can take one from ranks outside hotels or hailed in the street. Each city in Jordan has certain colors designated for their taxis.

Taxi meters are not always used at night, so it is advisable to agree on the cost beforehand. The same applies to long journeys.

Drivers are friendly, know the city well, and some speak English. It is considered appropriate for a woman to sit in the back of the taxi. Tipping isn’t compulsory, but it is customary to add about 200 fils (roughly 28 cents) to the price of the meter.

You will find this YouTube video very interesting. It tells about the first woman taxi driver in Amman. She found work there only a few years ago after her husband died and her son kicked her out of the house. The reality in Jordan is the oldest son inherits the father’s estate, and the widow is at his mercy. In this case, the famous Jordanian hospitality failed. http://youtube.com/watch?v=wlqvcyTrOhc

Since then, many women now drive taxis. I can’t say whether the taxi you hire will have a man in the boot (trunk), like the video shows.

Mini Van

Hiring a van offers low-cost travel because the fare is shared with all the passengers. If you are not in a hurry, try it, but be prepared to wait until all the seats are full.


Several bus companies offer service for individuals and groups. Regular tours in a fleet of modern, air-conditioned coaches will take you from city to city and can be reserved to take you to some of Jordan’s must-see tourism attractions. There are daily and weekly trips to various places including Petra, the Dead Sea, Ma’in Hot Springs, as well as Amman city tours.

I took this picture of a bus about a block away from Ali Baba’s restaurant in the background, where we had dinner.

Car Rental

Jordan has a growing network of roads, and renting a car can be a good way to see the country.  You will need a passport, a valid driving license in your country of origin that you have held at least two years, and a credit card in the name of the driver.  Driving is on the right side of the road. That makes it easy for us Westerners.

For our fellow septuagenarians, be advised I can find no car rental place that will rent a car to anyone over 70. You will have to take public transportation —which is not reliable—or hire a taxi. Our cab trip to and from Wadi Rum cost us 175 JD ($247). When we arrived in the country, we hired a taxi from the Amman airport to drive us to Aqaba. It was $168.

Road signs are in Arabic and English. Brown signs are designated especially for tourists. How thoughtful. Filling stations are plentiful in the major cities and on most highways (except the Dead Sea/Aqaba road). It makes good sense to have a full tank before any long trip. There are many car rental offices. Your hotel may also have one as a part of their service.

Here is a website that shows vehicle size, style, daily and weekly rental costs, as well as a map of Jordan, a directory of rental companies, top tips for renting a car. And it answers several frequently asked questions.

The information on this site will give you a heads-up on some vital information you’ll need to learn before renting a vehicle.

The next website, tells more about a driver’s license, main road traffic rules and more. At the bottom left of the sight, click the tab “Jordan Road Traffic Signs” to become familiar with them.

A rental vehicle will give you great flexibility in your schedule, time, and destination.

Ask a Friend

When we arrived at the airport in Amman, we arranged for our host to pick us up in a rented Ford SUV and drive us back to his home four hours away. It was very convenient for us, but that day he spent eight hours on the road.

Someone who has a car and is familiar with your destination is a great option. If you pay for the gas or share the expenses in some other way, they can also share their knowledge and experience about the sights along the way.

The exception is that if your friend is Jordanian, he will be offended if you offer to buy the gas. Honor demands he pay. You’ll have to be creative to show your gratitude and generosity in another way.

On our trip, we were fortunate our expat host shuttled us to visit his friends and to show us various places of interest in Aqaba. He also served as driver for our rental car while we toured on the week-long trip to Israel. He drove from the most southern city of Eilat, Israel, on the border with Egypt, Jordan, and Saudi Arabia to Mount Hermon in the extreme north where it borders with Syria. Then we went from the Sea of Galilee to the Mediterranean Sea and back to Eilat.

Regardless of the travel mode you use, there is much to see in Jordan and many options to get you there. Learn all you can before your trip to have a much fuller experience.

Jordan has more Biblical sites than any other country except Israel.

Did you know that Jordan has more Biblical sites than any other country except Israel? Actually, Moses, Aaron, and a few million Israelites spent two years in Saudi Arabia at Mount Sinai and thirty-eight years in Jordan during the Exodus. Was it at Wadi Rum that they spent all that time? Several of Israel’s kings had occasion to be in what is western Jordan. John the Baptist and Yeshua with his disciples were also there several times.

Look for our future blog that will show you where many Bible stories took place in Jordan.

Buy a Car

Once you make the move and think you’re ready to slip behind the wheel of your own vehicle, you will find both new and used vehicles available to choose from. One of the oldest international Ford dealerships in Jordan has a store and service center in Aqaba as well as other cities. Here is their site. Many other makes are also available.

Bring your own car

Should you decide to bring your own vehicle, be aware that there will be 100% duty, and its age must be only five years old or newer.

Helicopter tours

Golden Eagle Aviation Academy in Amman is one of several helicopter transport and tour companies available. If you need a quick pick-me-up, try it, no doubt that will be exciting.


Everyone’s first mode of travel is walking. If the distance is not too far, that’s what we do.

One of our retired Canadian friends in Jordan takes an exercise walk every day through his neighborhood. So far as we know, he has never had anything resembling a threat. Anita and I can attest to safety while walking in Aqaba.

On more than one occasion, we walked to a market center about five blocks away from where we were staying. Kids playing soccer in the street motioned me to join them. They kicked the ball to me, and I kicked it to another of the half dozen players in the circle.

A block further, a man and his six-year-old daughter approached us. He shook my hand and motioned his daughter to do the same. After the “welcome, welcome,” he inquired why we were walking in a residential area. He said most visitors stay close to the market and hotel areas. We told him we were staying with friends and were walking to the market. After a short, cordial conversation, we were on our way, and he and his daughter left in their car.

The sidewalks in residential areas are paved with various types of materials. The homeowners are responsible for their upkeep. Some do a good job, but others don’t. This makes it mandatory to watch for uneven, broken, or missing parts. The sidewalks also have planting areas the homeowner is also responsible to maintain. Some of these are very nice, while others are overgrown so much that pedestrians have to detour into the street to get past.

Should you need a wheel chair, you will need to pick your path well.

Other Modes of Travel

For really short distances, take a camel or a donkey—if you can find one. If you do, be sure to get a picture. It will certify you as a visitor to Jordan. For our verification, we chose to bring home exotic aromatic spices to share with our friends. Besides, we had no Dramamine for a dromedary ride, and we were certain to get seasick should we board one of those pitching and yawing ships of the desert. Just saying that makes me a bit woozy.

When you embark on your adventure in Jordan, most likely you will do just fine. Even if you hit a snag, not to worry. There will be a friendly Jordanian nearby willing to go out of their way to help you.